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GCC News from 2005
Deanne Buck, the grassroots coordinator of the Access Fund, is visiting in August. GCC would like to announce a "re-formation" meeting of the GCC, with nomination of officers and strategy, goals and directions and by-laws discussions. All people who are and want to be directly involved with any aspect of our work should attend! August 27th, 6-8 pm Mohonk Preserve (this tentative since needs final confirmation, if any problem we can move the meeting and will post here). Then there will be a General Meeting the same day as Adopt a Crag, September 24th, 6-8 pm at the Preserve Visitor Center (see above, still needs final official confirmation, will notify if any changes) The General Meeting will include election of officers per our bylaws. Please note the above and plan on attending if you can. Thanks!
Good news: we just got word that with the support of the GCC, the Mohonk Preserve received a grant from the Access Fund in the level of about $6000 - which will be used for renovation and improvement of the Uberfall kiosk and for climber education/awareness. We are working on our survey and would like to include a couple questions about how climbers use the kiosk and what might make it more effective.
There has been some recent controversy regarding the Town of Gardiner's proposed zoning law, the climbing community and the Gunks Climbers' Coalition. Having reviewed Gardiner's proposed zoning law, the GCC feels that although there are some potentially good aspects of the law, they also understand that several land owners who have been long time friends to the climbing community may be affected negatively by the law. It is the GCC's formal position to remain neutral in regards to the proposal, and to peruse other long term solutions to access climbing on the ridge. The GCC also views the proposed zoning law as a short term solution, subject to changes in the town board and possible litigation of some Gardiner ridge top property owners. The GCC continues to support the long term protection of the ridge and will work with other involved parties, to get the land that is important for climbing access into the best or optimum ownership scenario for the climbing community, through acquisitions and/or conservation easements, if possible. The GCC also supports and respects all private land owners that have and continue to allow climbing to take place on their property. The GCC recognizes that climbing on private land is a privilege, not a right, and encourages all climbers to treat it as such and respect the rights of private landowners. It is also the formal position of the GCC not to use litigation to force access to private land.
On June 6th, following several months of private discussions with Rosendale town officials, the Gunks Climbers' Coalition made its first public presentation to the town board to explore permitting legal access to the Water Works bouldering area. The parcel, discovered and developed by boulderers last year, exists on Rosendale Water District property, where a no trespassing ordinance exists. The site is significant enough that growing publicity and usage of the site had begun attracting complaints by neighbors, warranting an access strategy developed by boulderers with the Access Fund and the GCC beginning in February - with a quick agreement by everyone to stop all activity there. Private contacts were made to Water commission and Rosendale board members known to the GCC in February, March, and April, and the interest was such that we were able to request doing a formal public presentation by May for the June 6th town board meeting. While the presentation generated its share of heat both from board members and folks in the audience - liability and trespassing being the chief concerns - the board was interested enough to advise that the GCC present to the town's Water District board, which we'll do on Monday, June 27th. And since negotiations had reached the public level, the GCC made its first public advisements to climbing websites requesting compliance with the no trespassing ordinance on the site. Though we were concerned initially with gaining legal access to the Water Works, many of those involved from the beginning - including Rosendale officials - see this as an opportunity to explore creating a rustic town park, one whose cool, deep and leafy solace may be enjoyed by all.
Here is some updated information on the current climbing closures in effect on Mohonk Preserve lands. The Mohonk Preserve continues the two separate temporary climbing closures on the Trapps Cliff for the following: 1) The climbs Three Pines (5.3) and Something Interesting (5.8) effective April 15 2005. A pair of black vultures has successfully hatched young along this section of the Trapps Cliff. The closure will prevent climbing activity from disturbing the vultures at this sensitive stage of their life cycle. Black Vultures nest infrequently in New York, in fact, the only recorded nests in the state occur on the cliffs of the Mohonk Preserve. Vultures require some time to fledge. Estimated reopening date is early September for this closure. 2) The section of the Trapps cliff including the climbs "Double Crack" (5.8) to "The Blue Stink (5.3) and all climbs in between are closed to climbing activity effective April 4, 2005. Peregrine falcons have successfully hatched young in this area. This closure includes the following popular routes:
- Lito and the Swan
Peregrine falcons are a listed species in New York. This successful nest represents the first time Peregrines have nested on the Trapps cliff since the 1950's Estimated re-opening of this closure is early July Climbers should look for change notices regarding these closures - both at the Uberfall kiosk and on this web site. Thanks again your cooperation and understanding. Mohonk Preserve Rangers
The Mohonk Preserve has instituted a temporary climbing closure on the Trapps Cliff for the climbs Three Pines (5.3) and Something Interesting (5.8) effective April 15, 2005. A pair of black vultures is currently nesting along this section of the Trapps Cliff. The closure will prevent climbing activity from disturbing the vultures at this sensitive stage of their life cycle. Black Vultures nest infrequently in New York, in fact, the only recorded nests in the state occur on the cliffs of the Mohonk Preserve. Climbers, help protect this species by honoring this temporary closure. Climbers should look for change notices regarding this closure - both at the Uberfall kiosk and on this web site.
John Anderson from Access NJ wrote the GCC to warn us of possible development of the North Jersey Highlands:
HEY FOLKS,
SPREAD DE WORD.
STOP THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE NORTH JERSEY HIGHLANDS. PRESERVE THE LAND, PROTECT ACCESS.
IT'S NOT YOSEMITE BUT IT'S THE CORNER OF DE WORLD WE CLIMB IN.
SORRY ON THE LATE WORD AS I JUST WAS NOTIFIED OF THE ISSUE.
Attend the Planning Board Meeting, E-mail your legsilators, Get active.
Join the Highlands Coalition
The Town of Ramapo will consider changes needed for the Sterling Mine Road
Active Community (Lorterdan) on Wednesday, April 13, at 8 p.m. at the Town Hall.
I hope many will be there because this development boils down to an enormous
gift to a developer right in the middle of New York and New Jersey parkland.
The parcel, opposite where Eagle Valley Road joins Sterling Mine Road, is
now zoned R-80. The developers, Lorterdan, are asking for changes so that
they may build 292 units on 241 acres, clustered.
The land in question is just across the border from NJ and not far upstream
from the Ramapo well fields supplying a third of Rockland's public water.
It's within the view shed of Torne Mountain in Harriman Park and the
view from the climbing sites on Windbeam Mountain and elsewhere in the NJ Highlands.
John Anderson
Location of proposed Sterling Mine Road Active Adult Community in Highland's context One person to contact:
Edward K. Goodell, Executive Director
Proposed development location as would be seen from Torne Mountain. Dark line indicates ridge area proposed for development
The Mohonk Preserve has instituted a temporary climbing closure on the section of the Trapps Cliff from the climbs Double Crack (5.8) to The Blue Stink (5.3) effective April 4, 2005. A pair of peregrine falcons is currently engaging in nest selection behavior along this section of the Trapps Cliff. The closure will prevent climbing activity from disturbing the falcons at this sensitive stage of their life cycle. Closing this section ensures that climbing activity along adjacent sections of the cliff will be outside of the line-of-sight of peregrines nesting within this area. Since the peregrines have not yet begun nesting, they may move to a different territory. The Preserve will change the closure area accordingly. Climbers should look for change notices regarding this closure - both at the Uberfall kiosk and on this web site.
The Gunks Climbers' Coalition, as part of its ongoing Rescue Fund Program, presented a special slide show and presentation by Yosemite Search and Rescue (YOSAR) Ranger Lincoln Else on March 19, 2005 at the Mohonk Preserve Visitor Center in Gardiner, NY. Before the show, the Gunks Climbers' Coalition presented donations from its Rescue Fund of $1,000 to the Mohonk Preserve and also a donation of $1,000 with a special letter of appreciation to the Gardiner Fire Department Rescue Squad. The donation to Mohonk Preserve was accepted by Head Ranger Alicia Carroll. This donation will be used primarily towards advanced training for Preserve Rangers. It follows a donation by the GCC last fall of a new titanium rescue litter. The donation to the Gardiner Fire Department Rescue Squad was accepted by Chief Brian Stiscia and will be used to help fund equipment. Recently, the Gardiner Rescue Squad purchased an ATV which can be used effectively for transport of litters and equipment on the Carriage Roads and Backcountry areas.
The show was attended by a full house of interested and enthusiastic climbers. The show by Mr. Else was made even more dramatic because it highlighted both the perspective of the rescuer and of the stranded climbers in the rescues on El Capitan in Yosemite last October. Many climbers were rescued during the storm, which lasted over 5 days, and two Japanese climbers unfortunately lost their lives. One of the climbers to be rescued, Mr. Tom Andrews, a frequent Gunks climber, was present at the show and provided a blow by blow testimony to the difficulty and seriousness of this particular rescue. Lincoln Else noted after the awards were presented that "as someone who works part of a rescue team, and someone who climbs, I fully support the folks who do that work and think these donations are a great indicator of the strength of the rock climbing community in the Gunks."
For donations to the Gunks Climbers' Coalition Rescue Fund,
contributions can be made by check or PayPal: please
click here for the General Rescue Fund web page. 
Members of the Gunks Climbers' Coalition Steering Committee with YOSAR ranger Lincoln Else (far left) (Lincoln Else, France Menk, Chris Cook, Al Demaria, Chris Moratz, Jannette Pazer)
Dear Climbing Advocate, We are finally ready to launch the North American Rock Climbing Survey. Thank you very much for your participation. I came up with the idea for this survey at the Access Fund Grassroots Summit 2003 in Estes Park and am very excited to see it through to fruition. The results from this survey will provide your local climbing organization with quality information on (1) how climbers use local climbing resources, (2) how climbers travel throughout North America, and (3) what changes, such as management actions, increased visitation, and industrial development, will be supported, tolerated, or protested by climbers. Please take the North American Rock Climbing survey: North American Rock Climbing Survey link removed (no longer valid) Thanks in advance for your time and support! The survey takes approximately 15-20 minutes to complete. Only start the survey if you have the time to finish. All responses will be treated completely confidential. If you have questions or comments, follow the 'comments page' link on the first page of the survey. The North American Rock Climbing Survey is a collaborative effort to understand how rock climbers use resources, travel, and make destination decisions. The Access Fund and over 16 local climbing advocacy groups throughout North America support this effort. This survey only samples climbers and depends on your participation. The results will be available to national, regional and local climbing advocacy groups. Let your voice be heard.
Just in time for the spring climbing season! The new GCC brochures, featuring a campground map and access related information, are now ready and available! They are available at Rock and Snow in New Paltz and at the Mohonk Preserve Visitor Center. We need volunteers to help distribute them- we have a large quantity available for distribution to Northeast climbing gyms, stores and related businesses. If you would like to pick up a bundle for distribution, please just stop in at Rock and Snow and ask for the GCC brochures, or stop in at the Mohonk Preserve visitor center, ask for Hank, Debi or Alicia, and you will receive a few bundles for your local area.
Click here for a pdf file of the brochure.
Just in time for the spring climbing season, we should have our new brochure/flyers ready for distribution to the New Paltz climbing stores, gyms and for wider distribution in the Tri-State area. The snazzy brochures feature a copy of the MUA campground (NYSDEC Multiple Use Area on Route 44/55) map, and are partially sponsored by the Access Fund. We hope that this will encourage visiting climbers in selecting a legal site for when they choose to visit the MUA on their climbing visits. In the past, one of the issues with climbers use here has been that sometimes folks will camp in illegal sites, which has caused climbers to be ticketed and fined. We have also posted larger copies of the map directly at the site, but feel that a flyer/brochure about access will be much more successful in raising awareness and helping improve the use of the camping here. The new fold-out brochure was produced entirely with our own volunteer labor, and the initial printing was paid by a grant from the Access Fund. The large printing is being donated by a printing company, D&M Press, that is run by a climber. Look for our new brochures at your local climbing venue or the usual local New Paltz venues.
The Access Committee is now starting work on a Draft of Facility Development and Access Plan for the Peter's Kill Area of Minnewaska State Park Preserve. The Park is expanding and this gives climbers an unprecedented opportunity to open some new areas for climbing. The present Master Plan is the document that opened climbing at Peterskill. The climbing at Peterskill is considered a success by the Park, and thus officals there are willing to consider opening climbing elsewhere in the Park. The new Draft of Facility Development and Access Plan for the Peter's Kill Area of Minnewaska State Park Preserve must be drafted, using the old one as reference and guideline, submitted, and approved by officials in Albany. We are hoping to have a draft ready by this Fall.
The areas possibly being considered for inclusion are: Input is needed and greatly appreciated. Anyone with info on historical climbing information at these areas should contact the GCC Access Committee at .
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