May 2004: Vulgarian Good Times at Al Demaria's Slide Show
"See, there was none of this clean-climbing stuff back in the day,"
joked Al DeMaria, as he described a slide of himself wielding a piton
hammer, "we just bashed hell out of the rock." The Vulgarian's
slideshow on May 29 was a kaleidoscopic tribute to the Gunks'
defining era, while Vulgarian graybeards like Claude Suhl, Burt
Angrist, Joe Bridges, and Rich Goldstone peppered the audience
of 45 who came out for the GCC's third event at the Mohonk
Preserve's Visitor Center.
From their origins in weekend City College outings roaring
north to the Shawangunks to the prankster milieu informing
those bawdy route names, Al's show touched on many Vulgarian
themes, and demonstrated their peripatetic influence far
beyond cragging in the Gunks. Rock climbing remained clearly
a prep for the big mountains and spires: for Vulgarian ascents
in the Tetons and Winds, Canada's Bugaboos and Mt. Robeson and
the Cirque of the Unclimable's Lotus Flower Tower; even inside
the Arctic Circle, where DeMaria teamed with renowned climbing
writer David Roberts for a first ascent in the Brooks Range.
And, in true Vulgarian fashion, they did their bit of stewardship
work. The shale above the hairpin was once a haven for graffiti,
where Al showed a slide of Vulgarians climbing along the embankment
knocking off chunks of the stuff, which earned them kudos from the
Smileys.
The event earned the GCC another $260, garnering one new member
and one renewal, giving us 13 new members for the year and
68 total. Al DeMaria is now heading the GCC's access
subcommittee, and can be found on Sunday mornings with DW's
trail crew, shoring up erosion zones and building one stairway
to heaven after another.
Spring 2004 Newsletter
In May 2004, our GCC members received the
Spring 2004 issue of Talus, the Quarterly publication
of the Gunks Climbers' Coalition.
Previous issues are now available for your enjoyment on this website.
April 2004: Closures at Peter's Kill & The Mac Wall
Climbers at Peter's Kill were greeted to the opening of the climbing
season April 1 with an "ecological restriction" on the central part
of the crag: about 20 climbs were closed to accommodate nesting ravens
in the Scrotum Pole area. Wondering how long the area would remain
closed, and seeking reasons for the restriction of a non-threatened
species, the GCC spoke with Minnewaska's naturalist, Hatti Langsford,
and met with their head climbing ranger, Jorge Gomes, who provided a
copy of Minnewska's Draft Management Plan for the Peter's Kill to
the GCC.
During the assessment phase preparing Peter's Kill to accommodate
climbing, an environmental impact study was done to inventory the
presence of bird, mammal, and species of vegetation which might be
affected by climbers. While no ravens were found on the proposed
climbing crags at the time, they were sighted within the study
area, and guidelines were established to protect nesting ravens
(DEC Special Concern status) in the future.
The Master Plan reads: "Common ravens in particular may be impacted
by technical rock climbers as they nest directly on the cliffs. No
ravens have been found in the area proposed for technical rock climbing.
However, ravens have been found on cliffs outside the area proposed
for technical rock climbing and close to areas which have desirable
climbing routes. Ravens begin setting up their nests in February
and March, so mitigation action should be taken if raven nests
are found within the climbing area before climbing season begins.
The agencies will monitor the climbing area during February and
March. If a nest is discovered, the nesting area will be closed
to climbers until fledglings have left the nest." The Plan even
provides for the elimination of rock climbing "when the most protective
measures are found to be unsuccessful_"
Bird biologists from the Mohonk Preserve and Albany were brought in
to determine the ravens' comfort zone, and a 75-foot easement on
either side of the nest was established on the crag from top to
bottom. The site would have remained restricted until the chicks
fledged-typically 5-6 weeks after hatching-sometime from mid to late
June. But the nest was found to be inactive or abandoned in late April,
Peter's Kill rangers monitored the nest for another week, and the
restriction was lifted on May 4. Keeping in mind that climbers were
consulted during the planning phase of Peter's Kill's original opening,
and having seen that specific protocols regarding the raven closure were
being followed, the GCC had advised that climbers respect the
restrictions until they were lifted.
The GCC was also informed by the Mohonk Preserve of a nest monitoring
situation at the Mac Wall, prior to a closure of Three Pines and
Something Interesting in the 3rd week of April to accommodate nesting
Black Vultures - a species considered threatened in New York state - which
will likely last about 120 days. Adult vultures were aggressively
defending the nest from climbers prior to the closure, and Mohonk
Preserve officials moved to establish a buffer. Protection status aside,
these closures illustrate how Preserve and Minnewaska officials must deal
with the reality of nests in heavily climbed areas to protect both the
nests and climbers.
At Preserve head ranger Hank Alicandri's suggestion, a working group
is being formed from the GCC, Mohonk Preserve, PIPC/Minnewaska, and
possibly other ridge land managers to establish a more uniform response
to nesting closures in accordance with Shawangunk Biodiversity Partnership
guidelines. This will allow climbers to provide input and review nesting
closures before they occur.
April 17, 2004: GCC Spruces Up the Multi Use Camping Area
With climbing commands echoing down from the Trapps, eleven GCC members and
volunteers sacrificed half a perfect climbing day on Saturday, April 17, to
assist with a clean-up of the Shawangunk Multiple Use
campground on Rt. 299 in Gardiner. The crew scoured the grounds for glass
and garbage, shoveled out knee-deep ash from fire rings, and rebuilt
campfire pits on the 58-acre site. With the cleaning and digging dispatched
in a jaunty four hours, we decided to reschedule some necessary trail-work
for another day.
Long tabbed with the nickname "Multiple Abuse" for its reputation of overuse
and late night parties, the only public campground serving the Northern
Shawangunks has recently seen a reduction of eight sites, with further
restrictions and a complete closure threatened by next year-largely due to
the complaints of one neighbor. With camping already at a premium in the
Gunks, keeping the campground open permanently is a major objective for the
GCC.
Our ongoing efforts at the site include regular clean-ups, education to
reduce noise, garbage, and parking complaints, and a letter writing campaign
to Governor Pataki, Ulster County Assemblyman Kevin Cahill, and the DEC
Region 3 Director Marc Moran, who has approved the restrictions and will be
deciding the fate of the campground.
We believe approval for further site reductions and the decision whether to
close the campground will occur some time in May. It is crucial for your
letters to be written now. Assemblyman Cahill has been alerted to the
situation by the GCC and says he will do everything he can to keep the
campground open-but emphasized he needs letters (hard-copy, not emails) to
assist with his argument. You may download our letter from the website, or
use its outline for writing your own.
April 2004: Multi-Use Area Camping threatened
The MUA camping area on Rte. 299 is threatened with closure.
The reasons have to do with perceived problems by Gardiner residents who live
close by and have sent their complaints to Governor Pataki.
If nothing is done the MUA will be closed within a year or two.
This is your opportunity to get involved and help prove that climbers
can be good neighbors.
We are scheduling our first action on April 17th. This will be a
work and maintenance day. We will meet at the MUA around 10 am
and work until early afternoon. All members and interested climbers
should contact us to sign up by e-mailing us at
.
There is a discussion started on our
GCC Public Forum, please feel free to participate and let
us know your comments, concerns and how you can help.
We are also orchestrating a letter-writing campaign along
with public awareness and education about "leave no trace" ethics.
Please send in your letters to Governor Pataki, we have provided a
sample letter along with some guidelines - click here.
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