Trapps cliff closure lifted
June 30, 2009
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The rock fall and nesting peregrine falcon route closure that affected the section of
Trapps cliff between, and including the routes Asphodel (5.5) and Bitchy Virgin (5.6)
has been lifted. Two young falcons were successfully fledged from the aerie in this area.
The compliance of the climbing community was instrumental in this success story. There may
still be some loose rock present in this zone, so extra caution should be used when climbing
or using the cliff-base climber’s trail in this area.
A trail has been blazed by the GCC that accesses the far end of the
Near Trapps.
This trail has already been used by climbers for years and cuts left off
the first junction of the blue trail on the top of the Nears where the
first red trail cuts off right. From this junction the blazes are marked
with orange survey tape tied on the trees as well as small orange flags
on metal sticks which are planted on the ground or on dead trees. This
was particularly necessary since there is a section of the trail a
little ways down that cuts left and needed a bit of extra marking to
clarify where it goes. This section has extra density of the small flags
on the ground. After cutting across the woods for a little bit the trail
again becomes very clear and well trodden. This access to the end of the
Near Trapps is a better solution to the present closure of the small
section of the Nears by Eenie Meenie than a rappel solution so we have
not implemented any rappel station.
This overall approach takes about the same time to approach the far end
of the cliff than it does to hike all along the bottom of the Nears.
Trapps Route Closures (Expanded)
April 26, 2009
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The Mohonk Preserve has informed us of the following route closure at the Trapps cliff:
Due to rock fall and nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between,
AND including the routes Asphodel (5.5) and Bitchy Virgin (5.6) is temporarily closed to rock climbing.
- Do not use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
- Do not use the section of the cliff base climber’s trail between these routes.
- Please refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
We appreciate your cooperation.
Note: This has been edited - as of April 26, the closure was expanded from Le Teton to
Bitchy Virgin, and includes the climbs mentioned. This expansion is necessary to further
reduce the stresses that human activities are incurring on the nesting falcons.
The Near Trapps at the Gunks offer nearly a mile of classic and popular climbs just south of
Route 44-55. In 1993, the Access Fund worked with the Mohonk Preserve, Open Space Institute, and
Friends of Shawangunks to protect access to the Near Trapps, but a portion remains on private land.
Earlier this month, a portion of the Near Trapps was closed to climbing. This includes land below the
cliff to above cliff-line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet.
Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and obtain access to climbs further south by
hiking in from the Millbrook Ridge Trail and following a descent trail marked by orange flagging tape.
The Gunks Climbers' Coalition
is addressing the issue and looking into potential solutions.
To all of our dear Friends, and Supporters.
Before the start of the current 2009 climbing season it is past time to summarize our last
years' activities. Better late than never, so the saying goes!
The Mohonk Preserve experienced a theft of rescue equipment valued at 10,000 dollars last year.
The thieves stole the titanium litter that we donated in 2007, along with the bulk of the items
in the main rescue cache.
In order to help make up most of the sum not covered by insurance, our rescue fund
will contribute a good portion of the remainder so that new rescue equipment can be purchased.
Thanks to all who contributed to the Rescue Fund, we got some very generous donations.
We try to acknowledge at least some of the donations and some times take some time actually
depositing them, since we are a very small all-volunteer organization. If you did not
get an acknowledgement and need one for tax purposes, please let us know and we will send
one to you. We greatly appreciate all donations.
Part of our contribution will be covered by a non-solicited grant which we have written and
submitted to the Rivendell Foundation, once that is received.
We plan on also making another significant contribution in 2009 to our valued Gardiner volunteer
fire department, who have always cooperated with the climbing community where climber rescue
is concerned. We also wish to raise awareness among all climbing users that the rock climbing takes
place in Gardiner rather than New Paltz, and that the limited resources of the Gardiner Fire and
Rescue are significantly strained by the (unfortunately) increasing need for climber rescue.
We've also been continuing work the Rosendale bouldering area project "Water Works" as we
have been doing since 2005/2006. Negotiations with the town of Rosendale, the Mohonk Preserve,
and Open Space Institute have been positive. We are happy to report excellent progress and that
we will be required to raise a considerable sum in order to finalize the land acquisition.
After the next stage in the process we will announce the amount that we need and we
can already report that we have a substantial sum amounting to one quarter of this amount in our coffers.
The most unfortunate access issue (closure) of the AI Wall at Bonticou has not yet been significantly addressed by
us, but this hopefully will be pursued in this coming year.
Of course it was a matter of great honor for us to be the recipient of the
Mohonk Preserve's Thom Scheuer Memorial Stewardship Award this last fall at the New Paltz Climbing
Film Festival. It was a validation of our efforts so far, and will spur us on to
increase our efforts and efficient operation in the future.
It was also our pleasure to host donuts and coffee on the weekend of the Fall Film Festival at
the Trapps Bridge entrance. We got to meet many of our supporters, friends and new faces and had
a lot of fun. We also raised a good amount of money toward our various projects.
Our events this year were very well received and successful. This included slide shows by
Michael Kodas, our usual cleanup at Peter's Kill, a garbage pickup from the Mountain Deli all
the way to the hairpin turn on 44/55, and sponsoring a chalk clean up. A fun get together was
had after the chalk clean up. We also sponsored free pizza at the Vulgarian Roundtable at
Rock and Snow during reunion weekend.
News about Minnewaska is that the present Park Management is very receptive to opening new climbing areas.
The new Management Plan is being drafted. We will work together with Minnewaska and also consult
the Access Fund as this is progresses. We are optimistic that at least some climbing areas can be
opened, but that at the same time we must keep in mind the present budget crisis that New York State
is facing and that this could impact things as this goes along.
We expect the coming year to also be a busy one in light of all the above. Our events planning
is well under way and we have some really great ones in the works that we are excited about.
More on this soon!
Another piece of news is that our super-webmama, Jannette Pazer, has put together our very own
Facebook page. Please visit us by searching "Gunks Climbers Coalition" on Facebook and become
a fan to get all of our blow-by-blow, minute by minute updates. We hope that this can become a
much better venue of communication between us and you than anything we have had in the past.
Of course we will still maintain our web page, as well as continuing news flashes, and the
occasional Newsletter. The Newsletter has now involved as a forum for poetry, photography and
art by the talented climbing community. Please send your submissions to us via our contact info
on our web site as we will be coming out with another newsletter this year, thanks to our
very talented Ms. France Menk.
To all of you, best wishes for a good climbing season and see you at the cliff in the coming year.
Thanks for your continued support and good karma.
- The GCC board of directors and your Access Fund regional coordinator,
Chris Moratz - Gardiner, NY
GCC has a Facebook Page!
March 19, 2009
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For those of you on Facebook, the GCC now has a Facebook Page! Check it often for
the latest Gunks news, announcements, events, and photos. Using Facebook will provide
a fast and convenient way for all the GCC board members to disseminate information
and for the climbing community to respond and comment. Search for "Gunks Climbers Coalition"
in Facebook to find us. Become a fan!
More details about this successful event to come.
Michael Kodas (left) with Jannette Pazer, France Menk, and Dana Perry of the GCC
On October 17th, Rock and Snow hosted a Vulgarian Roundtable discussion with a panel of
legendary Gunks climbers who led the Gunks climbing scene in the 1950s and 1960s.
The store was completely packed and the discussion was fun, lighthearted and nostalgic.
The Gunks Climbers' Coalition was proud to sponsor free pizza for all who attended.
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Free Pizza! Henry Barber (in blue) was in town for the reunion weekend.
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The audience packed themselves into Rock and Snow.
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Panel: Dick Williams, Jim McCarthy, Elaine Matthews, Al DeMaria, Burt Angrist,
Claude Suhl and Rich Goldstone. Russ Clune moderated.
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On Memorial Day 2008, Maria del Piano fell on a climb in the Near Trapps and was
taken to an ambulance on a rescue litter. She needed surgery on her wrist, where
a titanium plate was inserted.
As a result of this experience, Maria offered to donate a generous amount of
money to the Gunks Climbers' Coalition Rescue Fund, to help with the purchase
of new rescue equipment for the Mohonk Preserve. With this seed money, the GCC
was just about to start a fund drive when something unbelievably offensive happened.
Thieves stole $9000 worth of ropes and specialized rigging gear from the rescue cache
in the Trapps.
While the Mohonk Preserve works with their insurance company to help recover their
losses, the GCC would like to continue our plans for the Rescue Fund drive to raise
money for new equipment, defray rescue costs and help with any theft expenses not
covered by insurance.
We hope to raise as much money as possible between now and
our November 1st benefit
slide show featuring Michael Kodas, the author
of High Crimes - The Fate of Everest
in the age of Greed, a narrative look at how big money and big egos are drawing crime
and malfeasance to Mount Everest. Admission to the slide show is a $10 donation.
Please help the GCC help the Mohonk Preserve, so they can have the rescue equipment
to help us climbers when we need them the most. The Mohonk Preserve is a non-profit
land conservation organization supported by its members and visitors and depends on
all of us to help. At present accident rates, the Preserve estimates that rescues
cost $10,000 per year and presently this must come out of the Preserve's bottom line.
Also, equipment ages and needs to be replaced with new equipment regularly.
Please go to GCC Donation Page
to make your donations.
We accept personal check, credit cards and Paypal payments.
Thank you for your help.
The Gunks Climbers' Coalition
Chris Moratz, Chairman and Jannette Pazer, Secretary General, both members
of the Board of Directors for the Gunks Climbers' Coalition, are very pleased
to have been presented with the Mohonk Preserve's Thom Scheuer Memorial
Stewardship Award this past Saturday October 11. For us, it is a great
honor to be recognized for our achievements in the past years. We have
worked with great diligence in order to solidify climber relations with
land managers along the Shawangunk Ridge, work toward opening new climbing
area access, improve climber trails, prevent erosion and soil compaction
in heavily used areas, sponsor events and raise funds for donation of rescue
equipment, and generally serve as a liason for the climbing community.
All of this would not be possible if we were not supported by the local
climbing community, the national Access Fund of which we are an affiliate,
as well as Rock and Snow of New Paltz and local rock climbing guide services.
For Jannette and Chris as well as our fellow members of the Board of Directors,
Mr. Robert O'Brien, Mr. Ajax Greene, Ms. France Menk, and Mr. Dana Perry,
who represent our all volunteer organization, this honor is a great milestone and
will serve to inspire us into the future as we continue our mission.
Jannette Pazer (GCC Secretary), Jon Ross (Mohonk Preserve Visitor Services Coordinator and long time Gunks Guide),
Glenn Hoagland (Mohonk Preserve Executive Director), and Chris Moratz (GCC Co-Chairman) accepting
the award at the New Paltz Climbing Film Festival.
Jannette Pazer and Chris Moratz with the award.
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Public Information Meetings for the development of a Draft Master Plan for
Minnewaska State Park Preserve - July 8 & 10, 2008
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On Tuesday July 8th in New Paltz, and again on Thursday July 10th in Ellenville,
the New York State Department of Parks, Recreation and Historic Preservation
will hold a public information meeting on the Draft Master Plan for Minnewaska
State Park Preserve. This is an opportunity for climbers to voice their opinion
on climbing opportunities at Minnewaska, as well as listen to a brief overview
of the proposed plan. We encourage climbers to attend and participate. Members
of the Gunks Climbers' Coalition Board of Directors will be in
attendance and we will welcome your input to us as well.
If you can't attend, they will be accepting written comments until August 11th.
For details,
see
here for the invitation letterfrom the New York State Department of Parks, Recreation and
Historic Preservation (in MS Word).
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Trapps Closure Lifted for Peregrine Falcons- June 28, 2008
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The Peregrine Falcon nest in the Trapps appears to have failed. The Trapps closure
has been lifted.
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Route 44/55 Cleanup - April 26, 2008
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On April 26th, the GCC organized a highway cleanup of Route 44/55 from the
Deli to the Mohonk Preserve Visitor's Center as part of a town-wide Gardiner
road clean up day. Nine volunteers came to help out. We will be submitting paperwork
to the state to be the official sponsors of this section of road which includes
having our organization's name posted on a street sign. For pictures,
click here.
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Trapps Closure for Peregrine Falcons - April 2008
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Peregrine falcons have returned to their usual nesting site
on the Trapps cliff. The closure is the same as last year.
Climbs between and including "Broken Hammer" and "The Blue Stink"
will be closed until further notice.
As a very busy year has come to a close and snow has taken hold up here
in the mountains, this is the time to update all our friends about what
we've been up to in "wrapping up" this year.
We sponsored two Access Fund Adopt-A-Crag events in 2007. The first one
was at Skytop, where we picked up several garbage bags worth of mostly
water bottles left by careless hotel guests (many bottles had just been
dropped haphazardly and fallen between the talus blocks!) It is clear by
our actions that we have proven that climbers do not have a negative impact
on the environment, it tends to be other user groups that do and that
climbers make good stewards of the environment. Of course the other news
about Skytop is that as of this year it is partly open, to paying hotel
guests who hire a guide. It seems that a quite a lot of climbers are
taking advantage of this. We think that this is probably a good thing as
it may eventually lead to more of a democratic access to this one of a
kind crag in the future.
Our other Adopt-A-Crag was at Peter's Kill area of Minnewaska State Park.
Rather than just a cleanup, this involves working on climbers access trails
and filling in heaping helpings of wood chips where the bare earth would
otherwise be susceptible to erosion. We got quite a few volunteers for
this one, about a dozen in all, and everyone pitched in until the
afternoon when we went climbing. We've done this event now for several
years running and it has created a lot of goodwill with the park
management. (The management of the park has just changed and it
is under new management.) As a new master plan is just starting to
be in process of drafting, we look forward to being able to give
climbers a needed voice in determining where climbing access may
be considered in the future.
The Mohonk Preserve was pleased to receive a donation of a litter wheel
from our rescue fund. The wheel can be attached to the bottom of a
rescue litter and serves to take at least some of the weight off the
rescuers holding and passing the litter along to its destination.
In conjunction with the titanium letter we donated a couple of years
ago, the wheel will also serve to expedite climber rescues in the future.
Also at the close of this year we have made another donation to the
Gardiner Volunteer Fire Department, who has always cooperated with
the climbing community where climber rescue is concerned.
We've also been continuing to pursue the Rosendale bouldering area
project "Water Works" as we have been doing with some time.
Negotiations with the town of Rosendale, the Mohonk preserve,
and open space institute have been positive. We still need to
have some more issues resolved for the next stage of the project,
look for more updates on this sometime in the near future.
We expect the coming year to also be a busy one. To all of you, best
wishes for a happy winter and see you at the cliff in the coming year.
-The GCC Board of Directors - Gardiner, NY
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