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Our Mission

The Gunks Climbers Coalition, established in the fall of 2002, is an advocacy group dedicated to creating and maintaining sustainable opportunities for responsible climbing along the Shawangunk Ridge and surrounding areas.

Latest Gunks Climbers' Coalition News

Route Closures Due to Peregrine Falcons Have Been Lifted
June 14, 2010
Two peregrine young were fledged from the Trapps Cliff and another 3 from Millbrook Cliff. The peregrine closure is therefore lifted. Thank you for your cooperation!

 

GCC's Giant Rosendale Waterworks Fundraising Party
May 22, 2010
Williams Lake, Rosendale, NY
What a great time! Beautiful venue, fun people, delicious food, high quality beer and wine, high energy tunes and videos, incredible prizes! And a thank you to the attendees who did a great job in cleaning up after themselves. The Sunday morning GCC clean-up crew found barely any trash on the grounds.

If you couldn't make it to the party, you can still help out. We have a donation button set up to direct contributions to the Rosendale Waterworks fund. CLICK HERE to make a donation. You can pay via credit card using paypal from there, or mail us a personal check. The goal is high, we still need more funds to help pay for operational costs of the Waterworks Area.

Thanks to everyone who came out and partied with us, for all those who have helped and contributed to the cause, and for all those who donated to the party. Click here for list of major donors and corporate sponsors. These businesses and companies are supporting the Gunks climbing community, we urge you to reciprocate and support these businesses and thank them for their help.

 

Trapps Route Closures
March 12, 2010

The Mohonk Preserve has informed us of the following route closure at the Trapps cliff:

Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between, and including the routes
       Credibility Gap (5.6) and Bitchy Virgin (5.6)
is temporarily closed to rock climbing.

  • Do not use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
  • Do not use the section of the cliff base climber’s trail between these routes.
  • Please refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
We appreciate your cooperation.

 

Access Fund Action Alert
Keep Minnewaska State Park Open!
March 10, 2010
New York State Parks are at Risk! For the first time ever, budget woes may close down New York State parks, including the climbing found at Minnewaska State Park. We need your help to support funding for New York's parks by contacting your state legislators and Governor Paterson. Visit the Access Fund advocacy center and take action now!

 

Millbrook cliff land acquisition
March 10, 2010
The Open Space Institute (OSI) announced today the acquisition and permanent protection of 67 acres of dramatic Millbrook cliff face on the southeastern edge of the Shawangunk Ridge. OSI’s acquisition now paves the way for opening the site up for public access and enjoyment, as it will be added to the neighboring Mohonk Preserve for management as a public recreation area.
Click here for the press release from OSI.

 

Sat, December 5, 2009
Adopt-A-Crag Day - Mohonk Mountain House
We're giving back to the earth-let's give to each other!

Please join us on Saturday, December 5th at 10am for our SkyTop Adopt-a-Crag/Winter Solstice Grab Bag Event.

Directions to the Mohonk Mountain House can be found here. Enter the Mohonk Mountain House by the main entry gatehouse. Sign in at the Gatehouse for the Adopt-A-Crag event and proceed to find us in parking lots B, C or D. Look for a silver Subaru Impreza with a large sign in the windshield.

Please bring work gloves, a bag lunch and if you'd like a small gift (under 20 dollars) for the grab bag. Also useful are long-reach grabbers to pick up trash in crevices. Swag for the volunteers has been contributed by Rock and Snow, The Access Fund and The Spa at Mohonk Mountain House.

We'll do clean up, find a beautiful location to have lunch and then start the holiday season off right with a grab bag. Please join us and do your part!

Any questions please contact

 

GCC Board of Directors Elected
November 19, 2009
The GCC is pleased to announce the 2009 Board of Directors. Elections were held on November 19, 2009, and Directors will serve a 2 year term.

 

Access Fund provides letter writing generator for Minnewaska Draft Master Plan
Deadline November 13, 2009
Minnewaska Master Plan - Access Fund Letter Generator

We need more climbing areas at Minnewaska State Park Preserve open for climbing. Now that the master plan is open and under review, we have a short window to make a change.

Please send your comments now. The comment period ends November 13, 2009.

The Access Fund has set up a great letter writing generator for the Minnewaska issue. Please click on this URL and click on "Minnewaska": http://www.accessfund.org/c.tmL5KhNWLrH/b.5208267/k.8C84/Action_Center/siteapps/advocacy/ActionCenter.aspx#

Please use your own words if possible. For more ideas for talking points, see http://gunksclimbers.org/talkpoints.shtml .We need to generate hundreds of letters in support of climbing.

If from NY send copy to your local assemblyperson and state senator. To find local assemblyperson and state senator go here: http://nymap.elections.state.ny.us/nysboe/ Once located you can click on their name to take you to your elected officials home page when they all have links to contact them. Send them a copy of your remarks with how anti-recreation, anti tourism the Minnewaska Master Plan is.

Please pass this information on to as many climbers as you know.

If a local business owner please push local chamber of commerce to send letters as well.

Link to the Minnewaska Draft Master Plan: http://www.nysparks.state.ny.us/inside-our-agency/public-documents.aspx

 

Letter writing information for Minnewaska Draft Master Plan
Deadline November 13, 2009
We need the climbing community to send letters to New York State to convince them to expand climbing opportunities in Minnewaska. Please see our talking points page for ideas on what to write.

The deadline for public comments is November 13, 2009. This is your chance to have your voice heard - they are listening and we need to let them know how many climbers are out there, how much we'd like more areas open to climbing, and how climbers can benefit the park, the community, the economy and be responsible environmental stewards.

Send your letters to:

Fred Williams, Deputy Director
Palisades Region
NYS Office of Parks, Recreation and Historic Preservation
Bear Mountain, NY 10911
Phone: 845-786-2701
Fax: 845-786-2776

Thomas B. Lyons, Director of Resource Management NYC Office of Parks, Recreation and Historic Preservation Empire State Plaza Agency Building 1 Albany, NY 12238 Phone: 518-474-0409 Fax: 518-474-7013

Or send emails to: Minnewaska.plan@oprhp.state.ny.us

 

GCC's Ajax Green interviewed on radio to discuss Minnewaska Master Plan
Fri, October 16, 2009

GCC co-chairman, Ajax Greene, was interviewed on Red Hook station WKZE 98.1 (http://www.wkze.com) on the morning of Friday, October 16 to bring attention to the Minnewaska Draft Master Plan and the public hearing on October 22. To listen to his interview, click here (mp3 format, 12:23 minutes).

 

Minnewaska Master Plan Public Hearing - Need Climbers' Attendance
on October 22, 2009

Minnewaska State Park released its draft Master Plan. It includes an extremely limited increase in climbing in the park to a handful of routes above the Peter's Kill at Dickie Barre. The ban within the park on climbing on the Palmaghatt Ravine multiple cliffs, Murrary Hill, Castle Point, Millbrook, Beacon Hill, and Lake Minnewaska cliffs continues. Climbing ban now also extends to the newly acquired lands including Awosting Reserve (Gertrudes Nose), the Shevchenko parcel crags, and Sam's Point. The ban on ice climbing within the park's numerous falls and flows continues as well. The climbing ban at Minnewaska represents the largest ban on climbing on public lands in the country.

Details of the plan can be found at:

http://www.nysparks.state.ny.us/inside-our-agency/public-documents.aspx

A public hearing for the Minnewaska State Park Preserve master plan will be held on Thursday, October 22, 2009 at 7:00 pm in the Lecture Center, Room 100 at SUNY New Paltz, New Paltz, NY. Please try to attend.

NOTE: this is a Draft, not a Fait accompli and it is very important to get as many climbers to the meeting as possible to loudly complain, that it is not a good plan, and does not reprentent a large constituency.

This is only the beginning of the fight to open Minnewaska to climbing!

Details on letter writing campaign to State Parks and State Legislature to follow.

Please forward this to as many climbers as you can think of.

 

Save the date! GCC Vulgarian Poetry Slam and Benefit Soiree
November 7, 2009

The GCC will be hosting a major benefit event to raise funds to help cover costs for the Rosendale Water Works Bouldering Area acquisition. This is an event you should not miss! It includes a Vulgarian Poetry Slam, fine catering by Main Course, and local wines. For more information, CLICK HERE.

 

Draft of the Minnewaska Master Plan and Environmental Impact Statement released
September 30, 2009

The draft of the Minnewaska Master Plan and Environmental Impact Statement was released on 9/30/2009. From initial inspection, it describes expansion of the Peter's Kill Climbing area to include climbing access to the Dickie Barre cliff area with constructing additional parking spaces a possibility, but no additional access to climbing in other areas of the park, and no ice climbing.

For more details and a link to the document, CLICK HERE.

 

GCC Position on Private Land
September 23, 2009

The GCC has released a statement on our position regarding climbing on private land. To see it, CLICK HERE.

 

Rosendale Waterworks Bouldering Area Update
July 23, 2009

In its June 10th town meeting, the Rosendale town board approved the sale of the Waterworks parcel to the Open Space Institute (OSI). A 30-day period for public petitioning of the sale closed on July 17. The closing is expected to occur within the next several months.

Following an expected transfer by OSI to the Mohonk Preserve, a planning process for the Waterworks will be developed by the Preserve considering community, environmental, and recreational interests. A projected opening date for the Waterworks pending completion of all of these developments remains to be announced.

The bouldering moratorium also remains in effect.

 

Trapps cliff closure lifted
June 30, 2009

The rock fall and nesting peregrine falcon route closure that affected the section of Trapps cliff between, and including the routes Asphodel (5.5) and Bitchy Virgin (5.6) has been lifted. Two young falcons were successfully fledged from the aerie in this area. The compliance of the climbing community was instrumental in this success story. There may still be some loose rock present in this zone, so extra caution should be used when climbing or using the cliff-base climber’s trail in this area.

 

Near Trapps Descent Trail Blazed by the GCC
April 28, 2009

A descent trail has been blazed by the GCC that accesses the far south end of the Near Trapps.

For details, CLICK HERE.

 

Trapps Route Closures (Expanded)
April 26, 2009

The Mohonk Preserve has informed us of the following route closure at the Trapps cliff:

Due to rock fall and nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between, AND including the routes Asphodel (5.5) and Bitchy Virgin (5.6) is temporarily closed to rock climbing.

  • Do not use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
  • Do not use the section of the cliff base climber’s trail between these routes.
  • Please refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
We appreciate your cooperation.

Note: This has been edited - as of April 26, the closure was expanded from Le Teton to Bitchy Virgin, and includes the climbs mentioned. This expansion is necessary to further reduce the stresses that human activities are incurring on the nesting falcons.

 

Near Trapps Access Closure
April 8, 2009

The Near Trapps at the Gunks offer nearly a mile of classic and popular climbs just south of Route 44-55. In 1993, the Access Fund worked with the Mohonk Preserve, Open Space Institute, and Friends of Shawangunks to protect access to the Near Trapps, but a portion remains on private land. Earlier this month, a portion of the Near Trapps was closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff-line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and obtain access to climbs further south by hiking in from the Millbrook Ridge Trail along a descent trail blazed by orange survey tape. The Gunks Climbers' Coalition is addressing the issue and looking into potential solutions.

 

Wrap Up Summary for the 2008 Season
Chris Moratz, GCC co-chair and Access Fund regional coordinator, summarizes our GCC activities of 2008. Click here to read the article.

 

GCC has a Facebook Page!
March 19, 2009

For those of you on Facebook, the GCC now has a Facebook Page! Check it often for the latest Gunks news, announcements, events, and photos. Using Facebook will provide a fast and convenient way for all the GCC board members to disseminate information and for the climbing community to respond and comment. Search for "Gunks Climbers Coalition" in Facebook to find us. Become a fan!

 

Michael Kodas Benefit Slideshow for the GCC
November 1, 2008
More details about this successful event to come.

Click here for pictures.

 

Adopt-A-Crag Day at Minnewaska State Park
October 25, 2008
Stay tuned for more details about this event.

 

The GCC sponsors free pizza at Vulgarian Roundtable
October 17, 2008
On October 17th, Rock and Snow hosted a Vulgarian Roundtable discussion with a panel of legendary Gunks climbers who led the Gunks climbing scene in the 1950s and 1960s. The store was completely packed and the discussion was fun, lighthearted and nostalgic. The Gunks Climbers' Coalition was proud to sponsor free pizza for all who attended.

Click here for pictures.

 

GCC Fundraising Campaign to Purchase Rescue Equipment for the Mohonk Preserve

On Memorial Day 2008, Maria del Piano fell on a climb in the Near Trapps and was taken to an ambulance on a rescue litter. She needed surgery on her wrist, where a titanium plate was inserted.

As a result of this experience, Maria offered to donate a generous amount of money to the Gunks Climbers' Coalition Rescue Fund, to help with the purchase of new rescue equipment for the Mohonk Preserve. With this seed money, the GCC was just about to start a fund drive when something unbelievably offensive happened. Thieves stole $9000 worth of ropes and specialized rigging gear from the rescue cache in the Trapps.

While the Mohonk Preserve works with their insurance company to help recover their losses, the GCC would like to continue our plans for the Rescue Fund drive to raise money for new equipment, defray rescue costs and help with any theft expenses not covered by insurance.

We hope to raise as much money as possible between now and our November 1st benefit slide show featuring Michael Kodas, the author of High Crimes - The Fate of Everest in the age of Greed, a narrative look at how big money and big egos are drawing crime and malfeasance to Mount Everest. Admission to the slide show is a $10 donation.

Please help the GCC help the Mohonk Preserve, so they can have the rescue equipment to help us climbers when we need them the most. The Mohonk Preserve is a non-profit land conservation organization supported by its members and visitors and depends on all of us to help. At present accident rates, the Preserve estimates that rescues cost $10,000 per year and presently this must come out of the Preserve's bottom line. Also, equipment ages and needs to be replaced with new equipment regularly.

Please go to GCC Donation Page to make your donations. We accept personal check, credit cards and Paypal payments.

Thank you for your help.

The Gunks Climbers' Coalition

 

The GCC Presented with the Mohonk Preserve's 2008 Thom Scheuer Memorial Stewardship Award
October 11, 2008

Chris Moratz, Chairman and Jannette Pazer, Secretary General, both members of the Board of Directors for the Gunks Climbers' Coalition, are very pleased to have been presented with the Mohonk Preserve's Thom Scheuer Memorial Stewardship Award this past Saturday October 11. For us, it is a great honor to be recognized for our achievements in the past years. We have worked with great diligence in order to solidify climber relations with land managers along the Shawangunk Ridge, work toward opening new climbing area access, improve climber trails, prevent erosion and soil compaction in heavily used areas, sponsor events and raise funds for donation of rescue equipment, and generally serve as a liason for the climbing community. All of this would not be possible if we were not supported by the local climbing community, the national Access Fund of which we are an affiliate, as well as Rock and Snow of New Paltz and local rock climbing guide services. For Jannette and Chris as well as our fellow members of the Board of Directors, Mr. Robert O'Brien, Mr. Ajax Greene, Ms. France Menk, and Mr. Dana Perry, who represent our all volunteer organization, this honor is a great milestone and will serve to inspire us into the future as we continue our mission.


Jannette Pazer (GCC Secretary), Jon Ross (Mohonk Preserve Visitor Services Coordinator and long time Gunks Guide), Glenn Hoagland (Mohonk Preserve Executive Director), and Chris Moratz (GCC Co-Chairman) accepting the award at the New Paltz Climbing Film Festival.


Jannette Pazer and Chris Moratz with the award.

 

 

Calendar
Sat July 10
GCC mtg


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